Well, what better time than a train journey to write this blog that I wasn't sure I was going to have time to?! In fact, on the first leg of the journey (Brescia - Verona) I slept like a log the whole way... I am certain that if I put this thing down and closed my eyes I would do the same now. But, that would be boring wouldn't it! I actually logged on because I *thought* that I had lots of internet time to use up today. Often when it gets to the end of my month, the day before it debits my next month's amount, I normally have several hours left of the 100 hours internet time. I was under the impression that it ended today, but I've just checked and it actually ended yesterday. It's okay though because I'm not going to have time to use the internet much this next month - going to be far too busy! I'm offline at the moment anyway while I write this.
So, Liguria... well, it was beautiful. End of blog!
No, ok....
DAY ONE
We set off early on Saturday morning in order to get the train which would get us to La Spezia at around midday. We had a bit of time to spare in Sarzana, but not enough time to actually visit the place. We arrived in La Spezia, quite hot and tired after a long journey. The hotel was a 15 minute walk from the station. Actually the walk was very easy as it was just straight up the main road through the centre of the old town. It wasn't quite what we were expecting.... chosen because it was recommended by the Rough Guide as a comfortable, friendly and cheapish place... it turned out to be the whole of the first floor of a normal appartment block, quite shabby and run down. The guy wasn't exactly "friendly" either - perfectly pleasant, but not overly welcoming or anything. He informed us when we went into our room that the previous occupants had broken the flush, so instead of pushing the button like normal we had to pull on a cord. We tried... nothing. Didn't work. Got him to come in and try and he fiddled with it to get water coming out and said the plumber couldn't come until Monday morning. Tried again...still nothing. The water was just going straight through but not doing anything. In the end he said he'd give us a discount and charge us for a room without bathroom. That actually worked quite well as the shared bathroom was only just over the corridor, and we still had our own private shower. And it was a bit cheaper. Once you got over the strangeness of the whole place, it really wasn't that bad. We had our own keys to all the doors which meant we could just come and go as we pleased.
We had decided that as the weather was very nice - hot and sunny, that would be a good day to head straight to a beach to get some swimming in. We chose Levanto as it's not one of the Cinque Terre (which we were going to visit the next couple of days) and, having bought our 3 day Cinque Terre cards which include all train travel, we set off. The beach there turned out to be a fair walk from the station, but it was worth it just for the lovely dip in the sea, and slightly less crowded beach! Italian beaches aren't that great... it was really gritty, rocky and horrible, but once we'd got over the initial coldness of the water, it was lovely and definitely refreshing after the boiling travelling!
Afterwards we explored the village a little bit. There was a wedding going on at the church and they were having a sort of party outside which was nice to see. Then we had prosecco in a bar, mmmmmm!
Having made our way back to the station we went off to explore La Spezia a bit. Not a whole lot to see, as we knew. The harbour was reasonably pretty but stank quite badly! Then we went on the hunt for the "cathedral" which we had seen marked on the map. Well, what a monstrosity! We didn't go inside as it was late a nd would have been closed, but from the outside.... really a very ugly building which looked a lot like the top of a multistorey carpark or something. Not that beautiful!
From there we went in search of somewhere to eat. Of course it was Saturday night and was by now gone 8pm, so most of the restaurants were full. We found a nice looking osteria (which actually served those microwave type meals, but was still really yummy) and were kept entertained by the antics of the tiny baby belonging to the couple on the table next to us, which was being kept amused by the waitress while the couple ate their dinner.
From there it was back to the hotel for an early night! Long day of travelling and up early in the morning to get on with the walking!
DAY TWO
We had decided to do the first two stretches of the walk that morning. Starting with the Via dell'Amore, the stretch which goes from Riomaggiore to Manarola. This is perhaps the most famous part of the walks and the most "touristised" - the path is totally flat concrete, very very easy so that anyone can walk it. I liked it though...others have said they've been disappointed by it, but I really liked it and the views were indeed stunning!
When we got to Manarola we had a bit of a look round the town, including going into the local wine museum - can't remember the name of the wine offhand, and have just realised we never tried it in the end! (some sort of raisin wine). Went up to the church and were surprised by the number of guided tours of Italians!
The views from up there were stunning back across Manarola.
From there we took the second stretch of the path, from Manarola to Corniglia. This was still a very easy walk, but slightly more ups and downs than the first, and a slightly less even path. Stunning views again. We were amazed by how many people had just clambered down onto the most precarious looking rockfaces to sunbathe, all on their own by the looks of things.
It was so peaceful and lovely, hearing the waves crashing against the rocks etc.
Now, when you get to Corniglia station, you have two options (well, three) to get to the village, which is up a bit higher than the sea. Either you take the steps: 33 flights, 382 stairs. Or you walk up the road. Or, you chicken out and get the free shuttle bus. Who can blame us for doing the latter when the bus was right there when we got to the station... ? I'm very glad we did as the steps were pretty meaty. (We came down them later on).
So, we got the bus up and visited Corniglia. There we bought a guide book which entertained us with some hiliarous translations and little tidbits of information about the various shops and restaurants (e.g. Fanny's Bazaar where we actually bought the book! I'm struggling to remember what it said Fanny would do to us no, but something along the lines of charming us with her welcoming nature....). There we had a nice pesto lasagne for lunch (sent back first time because it came out half cold!) and prosecco again, in a little cafe.
Now we were on the hunt for another beach. Monterosso sul Mare (another of the 5 villages) had one that we had seen from the station, but Corniglia was also supposed to have a good one. Then there was Guvano beach, nearby, a naturist one. Having gone down the 382 steps and got back to the station, we went down some more steps thinking we were following signs for one or other of those beaches, but it turned out it just took us to lots of rocks, and we didn't really fancy risking our lives swimming there.... so we had to go back up the steps again! I actually thought I wasn't going to make it because I got the giggles half way up and just couldn't walk anymore for laughing! Luckily we did make it, and hopped on a train to Monterosso, where we basically got out the train, went straight to the beach right opposite the train station, stripped off and went in the sea. I killed my feet on the way because again, the beach was really rocky, pebby and generally quite uncomfortable to walk on. But, the coolness of the water was again worth it! After the swim we stayed on the beach a bit to dry off, sunbathing/reading.
We were saving the next walks for the following day, but as we were in Monterosso already we decided it made sense to visit it. Also as the weather forecast was a bit dodgy for the following day. So, we explored Monterosso and discovered they were setting up for the Corpus Domini flower festival, laying out petals everywhere and decorating the streets with wonderful petal pictures.
From there we got the boat across to Vernazza because the guides had said it was best approached from the sea. It was lovely to get a boat actually, even if it was only a very short (5 min) trip. Vernazza was also celebrating Corpus Domini, and while we were drinking our prosecco in a bar near the harbour, we were able to watch the beginning of the procession, including watching the two big strong men having the crosses lifted up into their pouches to carry them. Quite amazing really as you could see how heavy they were from the struggle the 4 men had to lift them up. I'm amazed they managed to carry them that far!
After wandering around Vernazza for a bit we got a train on to Riomaggiore, as we hadn't actually visited it in the morning. It was getting quite dark there, but they were also having a Corpus Domini celebration, but much later. We explored the marina and then went and found pizza for supper, and then waited until 9pm which is when the procession was said to be starting. We waited, and waited... the locals were waiting too. About 10pm I think they finally appeared. We went up onto a viewpoint where you could see down to the marina. They were blessing the sea, they had set up a little altar on a boat there. It was quite nice really. Same procession with the petals as well.
From there we got a train back to La Spezia, back to the hotel a lot later than expected (we got the train at 10.56pm I think), ready to pack and get ready for the next day.
DAY THREE
We checked out in the morning and took all our stuff to put in left luggage at the station, which made a lot of sense. Stopped for breakfast on the way and then got the train to Vernazza, ready to do the walk from Vernazza to Corniglia. We weren't going to have time to do the other one (the most difficult stretch - Monterosso to Vernazza) so we settled for this one. It was a pretty long walk, very much up hill for the first half and mostly downhill for the second half. LOTS Of uphill, LOTS of steps uphill...generally quite a lot of exertion for a Monday morning!! It was well worth it though for the views and the satisfaction. The path was a lot more uneven than either of the other two, with lots of quite rocky and difficult bits. We were lucky it wasn't quite such a hot day (though the rain forecast never appeared!) because the day before the walks, although easier, had been very hot in the full blazing sun! Monday was a bit more overcast so we were able to walk in slightly more comfort, although no less hot really!!
In Corniglia we rewarded ourselves with a nice lunch...I had the local speciality, trofie with pesto. Yum yum! We were kept amused by trying to work out the relationship between a small group of Americans who were on a group tour, but a very funny sort of group tour.... 2 teenage boys, a woman who didn't look old enough to be their mother at first but clearly was the mother of one, the other boy was clearly infatuated with her... then the tour guide and one other randomer. All very odd! In fact, I was surprised by quite how many Americans there were on the walks and stuff... they seemed to be the biggest component of foreigners there really. Though there were quite a few English too.
From Corniglia it was back to Riomaggiore to explore properly in daylight. This time we got the lift up to the top and wandered around from there, taking in the parish church, the castle, a chapel and just generally enjoying wandering through the narrow streets with the funny coloured houses built on 2 levels.
From there it was sadly time to head to the station to go home... we had a little while to wait at La Spezia Centrale, but both managed to finish our books on the journey home which was good.
The following day we had a nice lazy start (we had earnt it - all that walking!) and then explored Brescia... more walking up hill to the castle!! More prosecco and Pirlo (celebrating my CELTA result as well that day!!) and a nice meal in Brescia, before heading home to pack etc and get ready for Verona the following day as Dee was flying back home.
All in all, a lovely holiday, and I am so glad we got to visit such a beautiful place. I definitely wouldn't have wanted to do the trip on my own so I am very grateful for Dee coming to do it with me
Recent Comments